Fast fashion drives costs

VKU survey shows rising additional payments - manufacturers will have to bear the costs in future

Berlin/Munich, May 4, 2026 - At the start of the world's leading trade fair IFAT, the German Association of Local Utilities (VKU) is drawing attention to the growing burdens associated with the disposal of used textiles. A recent VKU survey of municipal waste management companies and VKU member companies shows that The quality of the used textiles collected is decreasing significantly, while the costs for collection, sorting and recycling are increasing.

The results are clear: 81 percent of those surveyed noted a deterioration in the quality of used textiles, 35 percent of which reported a severe deterioration. Only a very small proportion reported stable or improved quality. At the same time, the economic situation has worsened considerably. 72 percent of municipal waste management companies now have to make additional payments for the recycling of used textiles, with only 28 percent still generating revenue. This means that the disposal of used textiles is increasingly becoming a subsidized business for many municipalities.

"Municipal companies reliably and comprehensively collect used textiles, even under the new regulations on separate collection that have been in force since the beginning of 2025. We therefore expressly welcome the key points presented for a new textiles law," says Uwe Feige, VKU Vice President and Head of Municipal Services Jena. "They strengthen the polluter-pays principle and systematically hold manufacturers accountable for the first time. The decisive factor now is the specific design: we need clear control instead of collection uncontrolled growth, a reliable organization of nationwide collection and, above all, full reimbursement of costs for municipal services."

This becomes particularly clear when looking at responsibilities. 73% of the companies surveyed are in favor of retaining municipal collection sovereignty for used textiles even in the context of extended producer responsibility. The existing municipal collection structures currently form the backbone of nationwide disposal and have proven to be stable, especially in difficult economic times.

Against this backdrop, the VKU welcomes the key points of the Federal Environment Ministry of March 27, 2026 for an independent textile law. With the proposed extended producer responsibility, it has been politically decided that manufacturers will in future take responsibility for the textiles they place on the market and will share in the costs of disposal. A separate textiles law also creates legal clarity for a rapidly growing waste stream and opens up the opportunity to organize and finance the disposal of used textiles in a sustainable manner and in line with the polluter-pays principle.

From the VKU's point of view, it is now important that producer responsibility reaches the municipalities in a financially effective manner and that the organization of collection is clearly regulated. The system can only function efficiently if existing municipal structures are integrated and duplicate structures are avoided.